FAQ

Q: How do I know what ramp is best for me to start with? 

A: Ramps vary by category of tricks that can be done on them. Really any smaller version of full size obstacles you would see in the streets or at the skatepark are great for any beginner. If you're just starting out the most well rounded ramp we would suggest is a kicker or wedge ramp. You can go back and forth on it, put it up against and ride up a curb on one, fly off of it to learn all sorts of technical tricks, and do tricks on it riding up the ramp, and doing a trick and riding back down. Some riders will even do tricks completely over a kicker on flat ground!

Q: I want to make a ramp what material is best to use?

A: Ramps can be made out of wood, concrete, metal, plastic, paper, salt, dirt, snow, and much more! If we're speaking in terms of accessibility and for wheeled action sports, building a ramp out of wood has the most versatility, concrete would be runner up. Concrete is more permanent and longer lasting if taken care of and can be molded into flowing shapes much more easily than wood. If you can't find a sweet DIY spot where it won't be a bust or you can't pour concrete on your own property, go with wood! Pressure treated is best as you can imagine even lighter ramps have some weight to them and usually you won't want to take the time and effort to drag a ramp out of it's protection from moisture  for every session. Pressure treated ramps can last over two decades if built well and maintained with care. A ramp surfacing such as Skatelite, Gatorskin, or Ramp Armor pays for it's self in weatherability and rideability almost instantly.

Q: Pressure Treated or Kiln Dried (Untreated wood)?

A: Untreated wood works alright for a bit if you're somewhere that is sunny most days of the year and has very little moisture. For the majority of the united states that's not the case and pressure tread lumber will be the best value for your dollar spent lasting four times as long.

Q: I heard putting tar paper or Ice & Water Shield roofing membranes will make my ramp last longer because it sheds the water underneath. Does this really work?

A: Unfortunately this does not work and also accelerates the decaying process of wood. You'll see many youtube videos, and instagram clips talking about this from people building ramps in warmer climates where it's dry and ramps receive very little moisture to begin with. While it's a great idea in concept and works with roofing on a house or shed the reality is roofs are many feet off the ground receiving only the moisture that comes down as rain and moisture in the air up away from the ground. Most of the time there is a foundation/ basement underneath causing these membranes to only be concerned about precipitation. Your typical amount of moisture evaporating overnight and during rain cycles near the ground is much greater and wants to evaporate right through your ramp which is totally fine and what your ramp needs. When you place a membrane of some sort between your ramp surfacing and underlayment, the moisture that bounces off of it has a hard time coming back out of the material in larger quantities and just sits between the membrane and your underlayment or plywood of your ramp. We've gone through these our self and it's an unfortunate lesson learned that we get to bestow to you.

Q: Should I tarp my ramp to keep it from getting wet? Doesn't that make it last longer?

A: Unfortunately tarping ramps is the most busted myth in ramp ownership. Tarping a ramp actually speeds up the decaying process of wood left outside, treated or untreated. Most seem to think it's the rain that eats away a ramp whether a mini ramp in the backyard or the kicker out in the driveway. The real enemy is the moisture that passes through the material. Just like those charts of "The Water Cycle" from grade school picture that water evaporating upward passing through your ramp. It's unavoidable and putting a tarp or any sort of moisture barrier over, on or in your ramp is the worst thing you could do. If you have a mini ramp or any setup with lots of wood close to the ground try to get it up as high as you can (with-in reason) off the ground. We usually shoot for 8" of clearance underneath so it's big enough where animals don't nest and also lets plenty of air pass through to let your ramp breath itself dry after any bout of moisture in your area. as for kickers in you driveway just get a couple 2x4 scraps or some bricks and tip you ramp up on it's side when there's heavy rainfall so it can completely dry out inside and out before the next session. Easiest way we teach this is to remember it's a moisture cycle you're fighting, not a rain cycle.